Where in the World are the Wendells: March 2026

Deoksugung Palace Guards

Deoksugung Throne Hall

We visited Seoul after two weeks in Japan, and really enjoyed discerning the differences in culture, food and architecture between the countries.

On our first day, after arriving from Osaka, we visited Deoksugung Palace. We missed the changing of the guard ceremony (it’s 11am and 2pm daily, check the website!). The buildings are an interesting mix of traditional structures like the Junghwajeon throne hall, and western-style Seokjojeon neoclassical palace.

Junghwajeon throne room

Seokjojeon Palace

Temple

Sungnyemun Gate

The Sungnyemun old city gate is really impressive – it is near Seoul Station, and there is easy access to the Seoullo 7017, a 1970s highway overpass that has been converted into a pedestrian walkway with plants and trees. A 15-minute walk east from our hotel (at Namdaemun Market) is the Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral, a rare example of western architecture in Seoul. Catholics were persecuted in the eighteenth century, including a massacre in 1832 that is memorialized in Seosomun Shrine Park and Museum just north of Seoul Station. Pope Francis beatified the 120 martyrs in 2014, celebrating this service in Gwanghwamun Square.

Gwangjang Market

Gwangjang Market is famous for its meokjagolmok or food alley. Food stalls selling produce and prepared foods stretch as far as you can see. We went there in search of Korean fried chicken, but that appears to be the only traditional food you can’t find at Gwangjang. So we opted for dinner at a traditional barbeque restaurant, where we enjoyed Galbi (grilled beef ribs) in a spicy sauce, served with lots of traditional side dishes.

Jogye-sa

Jogye-sa hanbok

Jogye-sa

Ikseon-dong

Insadong Culture Street

Our first site on Day 2 in Seoul was Jogye-sa, the largest Buddhist worship hall in Seoul. The grounds were decorated with brightly-colored paper lanterns, and we arrived during morning prayer services which was interesting to watch. Nearby Insadong Culture Street is a winding pedestrian street lined with shops and food stands. Just to the east is Ikseon-dong, which is one of the cutest neighborhoods in Seoul. Its streets are lined with traditional hanok houses that have been converted to cafes, restaurants and shops. Unhyeongung is the former home of Heungseon Daewongun, until 1863 when his son ascended to the throne and he became regent. Daewongun was infamous for slaughtering Catholics in the nineteenth century.

Bukchon hanok

Bukchon street

Gahoe-dong Alley

Unhyeongung

Bukchon is the most iconic neighborhood in Seoul, a mostly residential area comprised of well-preserved hanok homes. We walked the steep hill to the famous and picturesque Gahoe-dong Alley.

Secret Garden

Changdeokgung gate

Changdeokgung

Juhamnu Pavilion

Changdeokgung Palace is beautiful and worth exploring, but everyone seems to come for the Secret Garden tour. You must book ahead, and you purchase a general pass for the Palace and a timed pass for the Secret Garden tour in English (you get a confirmation email with a QR for each access). Entering the Palace (the famous Donhwamun gate is covered in scaffolding), you cross a stone bridge from 1414 then enter through an impressive gate into the courtyard of the Palace. The Injeongjeon throne hall is beautiful, and there are government buildings and residences as well (one building has an intense blue roof). The first stop on the Secret Garden tour is the most picturesque: the Buyongi Pond and Juhamnu Pavilion.

Namdaemun Market

For lunch, we enjoyed Bibim Kalguksu, which is chicken, cabbage and other vegetables with a spicy sauce. For dinner, we chose to eat street food at the Namdaemun Market. We tried Tteokbokki which is a popular Korean street food featuring chewy cylinder-shaped rice cakes (garae-tteok) simmered in a spicy, sweet, and savory gochujang-based sauce. Leek pancake was delicious, as were the dumplings. We also tried a deep-fried dough ball with oreo filling (like a donut) and two versions of pan-fried dough (like a pancake), one filled with honey and one filled with rice and sugar. All were delicious – dinner and dessert for just over $10.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbokgung throne hall

Gyeongbokgung ceremony

Guard ceremony

Day 3 started with the changing of the guard ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace, which was very entertaining (and free). The colorful Joseon-era uniforms, drums and traditional music made for an impressive show. See videos HERE and HERE. We also toured the Palace which was beautiful, especially with the mountains in the background. Of the hundreds watching the ceremony, dozens were wearing the traditional Korean hanbok outfits (some were western tourists taking advantage of free admission when wearing the traditional clothes). Nearby is the National Folk Museum of Korea, which was excellent. It presented Korean culture in the context of people’s lives, from birth to death. It was really well curated, and enjoyable to visit. Across the street is Baekmidang which services great ice cream in a traditional hanok house.

Folk Museum wedding

Folk Museum funeral

Folk Museum

Baekmidang ice cream

Admiral Yi Sun-sin

King Sejong

South of Gyeongbokgung, Gwanghwamun Square is huge, with statues of two national heroes: King Sejong, under whose leadership Korea developed the hangeul phonetic alphabet and led to universal literacy in the country; Admiral Yi Sun-sin who developed the armored ship and defeated the Japanese navy in the 16th century. At the southeast corner of the square is Kyobo Books, a massive bookstore with an English-language section.

Geonik Hong House

Next, we Ubered to the Geonik Hong House, which is an original hanok that is very beautiful and serene. Walking north we visited the Seochon Lounge, a contemporary hanok that is used as a public gallery. Farther north you get into the Tongin-dong neighborhood, where we walked the Tongin Market and stopped at a small restaurant in the market called “tong in Jeong” (look for the yellow awning). We had a pumpkin (really zucchini) pancake and beef bone tteok and dumpling soup. Near the west end of the market street (make two quick left turns) is Ogin-gil, a small street lined with cafes including Daeo Sochon, a bookstore turned coffee shop since 1951. Our last stop was Gyeonghuigung Palace, which was completed in 1623. Three days in Seoul was perfect to get a general introduction to Korea and this great city.

Gyeonghuigung Palace

Travel tips for Seoul

We flew into Seoul Inchon, which is easy and efficient (although more than an hour from Seoul via taxi). Korea uses an "e-Arrival" (link) process that is simple to use. The only challenge was entering our address while in Korea. Our hotel didn't show publicly on the search, and Korea addresses are tricky, I used to the postal code and street address to find something close in order to compete this mandatory field.

Taxis (often co-branded with Uber) and Uber are easy and very cheap: $40 USD for 75-minute ride from airport; typical fare in town was $4-5 USD. The Seoul subway system is very easy to use, everything is clearly signed in English, and the ticket machines are easy as well. They distribute fare cards which can be returned for 500 Won refund at your destination, just look for the refund machine, insert your card and get your coin.

Note: Google Maps does not provide walking (or driving) in Korea, due to security concerns of the South Korean government, prompted by cyber threats from North Korea. Apple maps does show relatively-accurate directions, but you wind find business establishments on the map. The concierge at our hotel recommended the "Naver Maps" app, which works pretty well. Download before your trip to get used to the new app.

Credit cards are very widely accepted in Seoul (even American Express). The only cash we needed was for small purchases below the credit card threshold, and for the food stalls at markets. We spent only about $10 (15,000 Won) per day in cash. Tipping is not expected.

More pictures from Seoul...